Born in 1883 in Saumur, France, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel lived a difficult early life. Her mother passed when she was just 12 and having been abandoned by her father she lived in an orphanage until the age of 18. At the orphanage, she learned to sew, a skill that would later bloom into a career. What many don't know is that she never intended to be involved in fashion but rather dreamed of gracing the stages as a cabaret singer. The name "Coco" came from two popular French songs, "Ko-Ko-Ri-Ko" and "Qui qu'a vu Coco," which she would always sing. Unfortunately, the musical world didn't quite love her as much as she loved it. After being rejected from various auditions, she returned to sewing and became a seamstress. In 1910 she opened her first boutique at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris as a milliner. She avoided the accepted style of the time which she found ridiculous and overdone. She instead opted to sell small flat straw hats and boaters. She later expanded to clothing after observing, while at the resort Deauville, that most women did not seem to have clothes adequate for beach and athletic activities but rather boasted seemingly old-fashioned clothes one would expect to see at a promenade. With this in mind, Chanel expanded her line to encompass clothing in 1913.
Coco Chanel used comfortable jersey fabrics and loose, casual silhouettes, challenging the favored tight corsets and rigid materials of the period in women's fashion. She designed clothes that allowed for activity while retaining some sense of sophistication. Her references to working wardrobes also hinted at the potential for fashion to become more accessible, arguing that high fashion might be derived from the practicality of the ordinary everyday attire (although in its upscale form) rather than the exclusivity of the foreign/exotic. She preached the elegance of subtle luxury and the power of simplicity. She was heavily influenced not only by her past in the world of the arts as a singer but also by her relationships with many influential figures such as Jean Cocteau, Stravinsky, and the Duke of Westminster.
"Fashion must come up from the streets." What set Chanel apart from other designers at the time was her focus on the practical and realistic application of fashion in ordinary life. She believed in looks based on body and simple elegance. Her work was centered on functional designs that took inspiration from the everyday attire of regular French women and men. Chanel placed a strong emphasis on the art of fashion, transforming ordinary outfits into exquisite, though pricey, designs through meticulous tailoring and rare fabrics. She combined the modern ideal of freedom and enjoyment with the refinement and ideals of old France. Her strategy aligned with the vision of a free world where even the most powerful women in society were free to express themselves.
Before Coco Chanel women's clothing prioritized shape over comfort and functionality. Staples you would find in women's closets, specifically that of the bourgeois and upper class, included, tight restricting corsets, and hoop skirts. Clothing was aimed at the male gaze, not female usage. Chanel changed this with her androgynous silhouettes. She wanted women to be able to move in their clothes just as well as men. In this sense, her work manifested itself as a means to empower women and fight against repressive social standards regarding women. Nautical tops, the Chanel suit, the little black dress, jersey dresses, and the 2.55 bag, are some of her most famous innovations and to this day remain extremely relevant in the fashion world.
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